Rediscovering Hawaii: How spiritual, magical Maui is resolutely moving forward

MAUI — It is yet another brilliant early evening on the west coast of this tropical paradise and the latest stunning edition of sunset theatre awaits.

We are at the Old Lahaina Luau, and like most in attendance — with a colourful lei around our neck and a refreshing Mai Tai in hand — we are ready for the most authentic of Hawaiian tourist experiences.

There will be a traditional feast. There will be hula. There will be history. And, of course, the sun’s magnificent descent over the Pacific mere steps away to literally set the stage.

This evening is about much more than the surface beauty, however, as historic and beautiful Maui continues to evolve and inch forward in the aftermath of the devastating fires that destroyed so much of this historic town in 2023.

As wonderful as everything truly was in Old Lahaina, there is a heaviness to the night on a site that somehow survived despite being located mere steps from some of the worst damage from the fires. It is a moment and a location in isolation given that the fallout is impossible to forget for families who suffered through the tragedy.

The ocean views are still as vivid as ever, the trade winds soothing and the Pacific waters blue and brilliant. And Maui is very much open for business again as one of its revered spots digs in to its recovery. But walk to the water’s edge and gaze up the coast and you can see the void where vibrant Front Street once stood on the west side of the island.

And here lies the complexity of the Maui recuperation.

Many feel that Lahaina is the heartbeat of the island, a rich cultural home to what is the essence of Maui and sacred grounds from the historic home of the Hawaiian kingdom. In the aftermath of the fire, recovery was delicate business, however. When was too soon for tourists to return? What was the proper way to grieve and recover for locals and visitors alike?

They are questions still seeking clarity, answers not always easy. But it is time to move forward.

“I think the island is ready,” says Michael Pye, the regional vice-president of Fairmont Hawaii and general manager of the Fairmont Kea Lani in nearby Wailea. “In talking to the community, we feel the time is now. We are ready to move forward.

“It’s a positive time to visit. It’s OK to come and celebrate and rediscover Maui.”

Under Pye’s leadership, the renovated Fairmont Kea Lani is doing its part to woo people back to the island in a tasteful and reflective way. The Fairmont is selling much more than the alluring waters of Polo Beach, the pools and one of the great lobby bars you’ll find anywhere. While those resort features are all to be savoured, Pye is suggesting guests elevate their experience. Why not make a vacation here deeper and more meaningful than a series of Instagram moments? Why not enjoy the luxury of a resort vacation, but at the same time immerse yourself in the culture?

“We encourage people to come with a renewed sense of wonder and curiosity of why Maui is like it is and how it can help change you,” Pye said of the hotel’s Rediscover Hawaii theme. “As we in Maui county go through a reawakening of who are, there is an opportunity to come experience and explore that. For those who have an affection for Maui, this is the time to be here.”

At the Fairmont Kea Lani, a 22-acre resort situated some 50 km south from Lahaina along the pristine west Maui coast, there are many ways to embrace the enhanced island experience. Just off the lobby sits Hale Kukuna, an open-air space created to pay homage to Maui’s past and present and the rich culture that unites the centuries. Here you can view exhibits, strum on a ukulele, or just sit in quiet reflection while gazing at a pair of charred wooden sculptures carved from trees burned in the fire.

At an E Komo Mai ceremony (a traditional Hawaiian welcome) shortly after our arrival, Kimokeo Kapahulehua, a respected elder on the island, shared the sage advice that if we experience the island properly: “You may leave Maui, but Maui may never leave you.” In other words, learn about the people and the culture and embrace it.

It is Pye’s opinion that now, as those on Maui move from recovery to revival, the concept of Kuleana — a Hawaiian word meaning responsibility and privilege — feels stronger than ever. During his lengthy career in the hotel business, the Canadian has managed Fairmont properties from Vancouver to Jasper to Winnipeg and beyond, but he has found a spiritual home on Maui and embraced the aloha spirit.

“The one glue that was consistent was the care and love for one another,” Pye said. “The aloha, the embrace of the island and the embrace of the people and the culture is so incredibly strong here. In the aftermath of the fire, we saw that — humans caring for humans, regardless of the issue. It was truly beautiful.”

The recovery remains a work in progress. First, there was the appropriate grieving period to ensure visitors weren’t interfering with the immediate recovery.

Next, was finding homes for the displaced and the reopening of businesses.

And over time, an ongoing challenge has been to dispel the perception that Maui is off limits, a sentiment that has helped contribute to a decline of visitors to the island of as much as 20%.

“I’m worried that the perception of Hawaii is incorrect and the perception of Maui specifically is incorrect,” Pye said. “Tourism dropped quickly, which at the time was the respectful thing to do. But the message now is that it’s OK to come. It’s OK to be curious and it’s OK to celebrate.

“There has been a lot of change to the island. There is a lot of awakening that’s taken place. There’s not a better time to come here.”

And perhaps most importantly, there is resolute belief that ahead there is Kealani — another wonderful Hawaiian word meaning “clear skies.”

HULA, HULA

The Old Lahaina Luau is the must-stop for an authentic celebration of the island’s rich history, delightfully told through a series of dances from the ancient Kahiko style, accompanied by chanting and drums to the more modern Auana Hula.

For obvious reasons, there’s an emotional component to the show now. An epicentre of Hawaiian culture and story telling, it’s one of the few spots on famed Front Street to survive the fires and as such symbolizes hope for the Lahaina community.

A walk through the history of hula — every sensual dance tells a story — gives visitors a special insight into its impenetrable ties to Hawaiian culture.

PLANT A TREE

Why not plant a tree? The Fairmont’s Rooted in Aloha initiative in partnership with Skyline Conservation with the goal of helping restore native forests on the slopes of Haleakala. Resort guests are encouraged to donate to the program or participate with seedling planting. On our trip, we got our hands dirty on the mountain planting trees, something Fairmont will facilitate for guests on request. Planted trees in the program include Koa, sandalwood and Ohi’a.

ISLAND HOP

We started our journey on Hawaii Island (the Big Island, as it’s more commonly known) at the Fairmont Orchid, another stunning seaside resort property. Up the coast from Kona, life is more laidback here, but the scenery is dazzling with the solidified and rugged a’a lava from the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow.

While at the Orchid, slip out to play 18 holes at Mauna Lani South, home of one of the most photographed holes in the U.S., the Par 3 15th, all of 200 yards (or more) over part of the Pacific. A mix of mountain and ocean views, Mauna Lani is world-class from opening drive to final putt.

HAVE A COCKTAIL

It is the unofficial home of the Mai Tai so be prepared to indulge, with great options everywhere. We’re told on good authority that walking north from the Fairmont Kea Lani beach opens up the opportunity for a Mai Tai tour at a number of different resorts.

On site, Pilina offers stunning, open-air views of the Pacific. Combined with terrific cocktails, it’s an elite lobby bar experience.

Off site, the Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm serves up a variety of distilled spirits with ingredients from its 80-acre organic farm, incredible wood-fired pizza and stunning views from its vantage point on the beautiful slopes of Haleakala. Also, it’s worth a stop at the Maui Brewing Company for the Big Swell IPA or the Pau Hana Pilsner.

rlongley@postmedia.com